At Gucci, the heart of a Summer of Darkness
MILAN - Oh, brave new world that has flowers inside! She slipped on a dark and gloomy narrow trousers in full bloom on jackets and pants or they were on a silk tunic slipping on the chest.
So why didn'tGucci flowers, merged with the sport, suggest a rollicking, joyous germination of spring / summer 2014?
"I wanted to warm up the sport with a patch of romantic - something more sensual", the Gucci designer Frida Giannini said after the show on Monday.
But it seems a mysterious darkness in the heart of Milan during spring fashion this season, which ends on Tuesday be.
Perhaps in this difficult economic climate, it seems not the time to boast sun beach clothes. Or perhaps they are best suited to the fast-fashion chains left.
Gucci Man seemed a climber as a Beach Boy. He hung on the back of a strong layer of canvas space age and pants suggested that thermal leggings with riding spots.
As announced a sports and soft, the show was a point of view. But where sexuality should seep was this cult brand? Men flowers or a sweater embroidered mesh drooping flowers, more like an opera chorus that Gucci hunky men.
When Ms. Giannini said, there are a variety of collections to choose Gucci. And there are a variety of customers, judging by eight solid ranks of Asians in the audience. It seemed to indicate that the floral motifs scarves summer came not flourish in the archives of Gucci, but research in Asia. But whatever the Italian flower power was absent from the show.
Sports / elegant blend seems to be the story of the season. The cricket field: MONCLER RANGE Bleu, who has worked his way through the fence skiing, swimming found a new home.
The designer Thom Browne put his cricket team changes all white short, jackets, coats and taut cable cardigan sweater with V-neck, with red logo, white and blue stripes jacket. The goal was the rear end of a grassy field for a group photo, to make the old style, vintage photo smoke explosion device.
This is approximately the level of the voltage. Mr. Brown mix of casual to the seam, and it is able to fit a theme.
"Too many holiday clothes! People go on holiday for two weeks and the rest is work," Giorgio Armani said backstage while he was elegant suits with a group of models and talked about research material.
The Emporio Armani collection, the designer sent Monday was a relaxed and sportsmanship with mesh on the sleeves, shoulders or on a hill used clothing working on giving that focuses an overview of the skin. In sunglasses, a travel bag or purse other hand rolled and Emporio man could handle a weekend.
Mr. Armani has his own vision, so instead of the usual moody, sullen models, these guys smiled. And for the finale, came every man in a tuxedo with what the designer must consider the ultimate accessory: a beautiful woman on his arm.
At Diesel Black Gold, the colors were dark, but the atmosphere was fresh and clean: not so much rock 'n' easy to compensation ankle jeans and a vague impression that a pattern of similar nature. And also for the spring collection, there were stylish leather jackets with lapels that looked like tuxedos simplified.
At Roberto Cavalli, a tribute to the diameters of the Middle Ages they were particularly effective focus as ground blade on a jacket or a silk shirt. The colors of the dress and tuxedo jackets that have dominated this collection came in majestic colors like ruby red jacquard. Again, these could be rather than in the summer shade and winter.
"Knives were the source of inspiration," said Daniele Cavalli, who was the values of the medieval knight behind the idea of revisiting: "courage, pride and honesty."
Gaia Trussardi took over the family to a safe place and phlegmatic: a focus on the leather. After a detour through the vivid imagination of the designer Umit Benan, he was back in the familiar guessing game pieces are not made of animal skins?
"The desert - like an atmosphere of free and open space," said Mrs. Trussardi, based on the dominant color of desert sand, golden beige and blue sky and the leather, the designer said he was.? 70 percent of the issue.
Zorro, the legendary noble and heroic figure who fought for the rights of the people of Mexico, was the inspiration for Kean Etro, whose collection was with horses galloping across the cotton and suede modeled beige sand, while embroidery and fringes decorated edges sportswear. This elegant gallop was completed in beauty: big sombrero tipped in hand, next to a travel guitar case.
Bikes in the city, which are now available in so many cities were a source of inspiration for Bally Smart - a summary of the feeling of the season for the sport without holidays. Creative co-directors of The Shoe Company, Michael Herz and Graeme Fidler, discovered a "tour de Bally'', which took place in 1952. From this idea, the duo a collection of light and functional clothes that are also designed to take you invented to work - and not just a bike, but at the reception.