Shocking! The famous fashion house Schiaparelli revived
10/19/2012 15:02
Hats, shoes, dresses and lobster glasses spiral could easily be part of a review of wardrobe include Lady Gaga.
The avant-garde Elsa Schiaparelli: - incredibly - in 1890, but these objects were all created from the mind of another woman, who was born.
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The home of the most influential fashion designers, and hated rival of Coco Chanel is, this fall back on, in the most anticipated fashion events 2012 in Paris. There were a variety of activities this year, the actress Farida Khelfa appointed ambassador of the house.
If Schiaparelli is not a known name - his company folded in 1954, and she died in 1973 - his first design certainly lived: print newspapers, exposed zippers, perfume bottles in the female form, and shocking pink - the first woman - probably power suit.
"The house is really DNA Schiaparelli fashion," says Khelfa. "When you see the fashion world through the century, you can see, is all the people who inspired them _all couturiers of the last century and this."
The new house is, of course, take all the iconic building codes, but do not have - an artistic director and clothes from past 1954 - it is certainly one of the most remarkable fashion revival be lately.
But why beat now?
"It is the right time ... and things are moving fast," Khelfa said, adding that she finally found a piece of the puzzle to the original showroom at 21 Place Vendôme, which set the tone for the production of clothing, the expected recovery next summer.
"It's really something to be in the place of creation, we can imagine the store on the ground floor, with all the window displays made by (artist Salvador) Dali .... In his time there were three women in the Place Vendome. Schiaparelli , Chanel and Madame Madame Grès. now we're back. "
In the showroom Schiaparelli bosses have renovated meticulously restored the surreal. Original artifacts that artists designed to save Schiaparelli are proudly displayed. In five rooms, sparkling gold pillars Alberto Giacometti, a compact powder as a telephone line from Dali, a colorful carpet wacky Fernand Léger, spiral metallic glasses created by Man Ray.
It also includes a "cabinet of curiosities" which presented the perfume Shocking - a reminder of why the name Schiaparelli became famous. A one foot (30 cm) curved bottle of perfume provocative fuchsia in the form of a bust of Hollywood sex symbol Mae West - a view shared by designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier. "Shocking" is an adjective at high speeds in the vocabulary Schiaparelli. She invented a bright fuchsia shade - the now-famous "shocking pink" - it was chosen as the signature color of the house.
In 1948, according to the company legend, a survey of Americans Elsa Schiaparelli at the top of their list of the best known in France. But they still could not pronounce his name: "Fast" is difficult as in "school".
A highly publicized exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York in May with Schiaparelli dresses alongside those modern Prada presented its sounding a new generation, but showed how to remain avant-garde creations.
People "had trouble seeing what the dress was from 1927 and was in 2012," says Khelfa. "Often those who saw in 1927 informed! True avant-garde."
Paris-based fashion writer Rebecca Voight sees the introduction to be extremely promising. "She still has such an incredibly dynamic image and a name. The people behind the launch are really in the game, so there's really no reason why they are wrong. The question is who will be (the designer)?"
The identity of the artistic director, the big question.
To start printing success may explain why there has been no official announcement, though it planned for September.
Khelfa and CEO Schiaparelli Camilla Schiavone denied rumors that John Galliano could be in the race, but both refused to disclose a pre-selection.
Schiavone tried to explain the mystery.
"The house was rebought in 2006. Now we own. We waited to get so long. We are not interested in chasing anyone. But you will know in the next three weeks or more. First, as I call it, ready- to-couture collection is expected to be in June 2013. "
Ready-to-stitch is a concept Schiavone held hopes the class profile named Schiaparelli. The dress is not available in stores but are to some customers that are tailored to the 21 Place Vendôme fittings invited. Although the house is, the goal is to produce garments very portable, the first collection will be presented during the week of Haute Couture Paris - fittingly alongside longtime rival Chanel.
At their head, Coco Chanel Schiaparelli rejected because "this Italian artist who makes clothes." Schiaparelli said, even spitefully call Chanel "as milliner."
Fashion rivalries are in vogue at the moment. A highlight of the fashion calendar this year include the media between the two new designer Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Dior to today.
Not after 60 years indicate revival Schiaparelli will be new handbags at dawn in the Place Vendome?
. "No, Chanel Chanel remains," says Khelfa hesitates. "But Schiaparelli's coming!"