The boys throwing shapes
The designers have given the green light for the practice of men's fashion shows in Paris, but kept playing on the volume of interesting things, writes Stephen Todd.
As I write this, I'm in an elegant apartment Potts Point (not mine) dressed in jeans, a Ksubi Fruit of the Loom Hooded plaid a dense atmosphere, where I slept sitting up. The sun has just set up on the wall of the apartment Leo Schofield. Get it? I'm in the center of Sydney. I'm not in Paris for the collections (for the first time in 20 years, after the call of so many at home for the city).
But when it comes to fashion, the distance is not a tyrant: it actually helps me focus what really means to be truly appropriate wardrobe of modern Australians. And you avoid all these events, cocktail postmortem.
Expect not call Jean-Paul Gaultier this page. Too fast a horse to be blunt thematic relevance. You will not be John Galliano. Rebuke of the Italian Catholic, a Jew in a public bar, visibly exhausted, but filmed live and straight-to-YouTube is not how to take the fashion front.
What is the men's fashion forward this season, it seems, is it good kick in the goal posts of a phone book. As it happens, Milan, Paris designers focused not so much could be on the essentials, but mainly by eliminating anything that appears to be unnecessary or excessive.
For those looking for trends, they are: volume. Cut a broadband, especially in the pants, it's a last gasp effort to show that times are very good (and we can afford more fabric). Sleevelessness. What does the Lord can taketh away the Lord (perhaps your pants ruffled skirts that grandmother dining room, but the jacket is simply as a sofa Shaker). Sportswear. Debtors must know how to operate. Shorts. Ditto. Shoes. If you can not afford to render for the new season, last season to dress up with the scene of shoe thief. No wonder she bigotry known as'' brother'' lianas.
And therefore, for the shows.
Dior Homme. An ode to the blue (totally in vogue vis-à-vis Milan). Designer Kris Van Assche - perhaps for the return of former Dior Homme designer Hedi praised Slimane at the top of the Yves Saint Laurent - worn this season, so its often difficult time liking for 1980 for a highly differentiated reflection on our times. The opening of a Navy Blue (the first of a series of this range) waist-high flat-fronted jacket groom more (that is, folds) pants, worked Van Assche this topic slowly, with caution: double-breasted suit, sleeves, double breasted, round neck (think Park Avenue porter), a jacket out of the car with a single patch pocket. And then they came in shades of gray. Bulletin Van Assche would be: respect in the classroom, but a little introverted.
Raf Simons was sitting next to him, back of the room. But the former Jil Sander, Christian Dior designer now (as a replacement for Galliano) is a little more adventure. He also concentrates the costume closet, in both incarnations of single-and double-breasted suit. But Simon's on the podium jackets more often than not come out shorter slit thigh sport (seriously guys, do not try this at home). Blue and Navy regulations this season, he ventured into uncharted territory of the emerald, sage and slate. Utility dress looked as if they were straight out of the American Hospital in Neuilly. The podium or Prada in Milan.
At Lanvin, Alber Elbaz and Lucas decided Ossendrijver fashion designer'''' by them on the floor and lift it immediately appears on a runway (remember that it was Helmut Lang, increase of fashion "'secular'' in the first place male with excellent shows in the 1980s). A white double-breasted peacoat (trend!) and frayed black-Hem (a short trend!) were wearing white shirts and skinny black ties (not likely! Carried). High waisted trousers (trend!) sleeves were worn with black biker boots (trend!). flat-fronted (trend!) Jil Sander pants echo collections in Milan (so trendy!) Just like a flat (OK, so a zippered pocket) peacoat last echo Raf Simons collections for the same label. For men, the apple does not fall far from the tree.
At Comme des Garcons, Rei Kawakubo has bucked the trend by presenting a series of low-cut, soft draped jackets in gabardine dress style of the kind of unstructured, pajama-style suit, which could already be in fashion during the Raj. Personally, I prefer to get my laundry only that person. Felted blankets and tiles make them perfect clothes anyway.
Kim Jones. Everybody heard of him? Nan? Louis Vuitton - the better? The aesthetics of chic British designer, known for its football wear (as opposed to wearing shock), was in the vicinity of the house rules and luxury travel. The shoulder joint was strictly impressive, but goes against the seasonal peak preference for soft, rounded shoulders. The puddles, pants cut off, however, that the faux pas. An ode to The Great Gatsby (strangely, one of the few men in this season - and is it possible that Baz Luhrmann film makes waves in style on our shores fatal) slowed to a tobacco-tone dress crossover open collar and tie Ascot , shoes without socks trees - just neatly trimmed lawns spans eggs East.
Established Sometimes I think men's fashion shows in Paris next few days after the presentations in Milan, Paris houses likely to get the trends and halls in the capital of Italian fashion are. Surely it was important after the sweetness of the cup, the volume of the pants, jacket and distribution lines of shorts.
Then comes Hermes. Under the direction of Veronique Nichanian, the menswear collections remain permanently away from the fray. It's not that they go against the trend (that would be too easy, too vulgar) to go, but they show an uncanny ability to assimilate the wildest trends, but put them in a kind of mixing chic and send it, perfectly formed. Yes, the studio is first class. And yes, the fabric of luxury (without being intrusive) are. But it unerring eye of the designer who brought the collection to life, worn even in the simplest zip fronted anoraks, jackets navy single-breasted with contrast-interface showed in his buttonhole, or a sweater by the finest is mesh-ample above (but not bulky) knee-length shorts with the more sober off-white. Hermes canvas shoes, like the Greek mythology would have it, of course, was the messenger of the gods.